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2025-01-19 10:39 am
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Shanghai Diary: 小寒 and 大寒

Okay, I knew that it would be colder here in Shanghai than it was in Taiwan, but I figured since it didn’t snow, it would be fine, better than Minsk.


Friends, I was wrong! I did not prepare for winter well at all! January 5th marked the start of 小寒 (xiǎo hán, or Minor Cold) month on the Chinese 24 month solar calendar (I haven’t researched more into it, I’ve just picked up tidbits from various social media posts) and yikes! The temps have dipped below freezing AND the humidity has dropped, so my skin is tight and itchy and cold. Plus, my apartment is not well insulated and doesn’t have central heating (typical of Chinese apartments). And Songjiang is really windy, and my apartment windows sit in the path of the wind, so it’s dang cold! And tomorrow marked the start of 大寒 (dà hán, or Major Cold)! I’ll be heading to Idaho on Tuesday for three weeks, right into Idaho’s dà hán season. But I’ve ordered warmer clothes so I’ll be able to better handle the weather there and when I come back. AND crucially, it’s generally been sunny out, which has made a HUGE difference. Minsk was always cloudy and, being so far north, had long, dark winters. And Taiwan, while warmer, was also cloudy and rainy.


Despite the cold, I’m really enjoying life here overall. School is still school, and I’m still going to look for a new job for when my contract ends, but it’s bearable. And I’m back into writing fic, in my first new fandom since I watched The Untamed in 2020. I started watching Under the Skin, a c-drama about a police detective and an artist who becomes the sketch artist. The characters make some WILD choices as police officers, but the lead actors are so charismatic (and handsome) and I’m hooked.


I also finally joined 小红书 — I meant to do it when I got here, but I forgot. However, the TikTok refugee flood reminded me to sign up. My friend Breeze recommended it to me months ago, and I’ve been struggling to find non-Starbucks cafes on Instagram, so I joined and will explore when I get back from vacation in furtherance of my goals to have more treats AND learn more Chinese.

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2025-01-02 06:02 pm
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Shanghai Diary: A New Year Begins

Well, a western new year begins. We will get a proper holiday in about 3 weeks, with the Lunar New Year break. One of the major reasons I will NOT continue with this school after my contract is up.


This new school is not a good fit, which is a shame. I had wanted to find somewhere to stay for a while. I really like living in Shanghai, even though I don’t feel like I’m living in Shanghai because I’m so far out in the ‘burbs. I like the seasons, I like the cold! I like being dry most of the time! (It’s far less humid here in the winter than I was expecting, so I’m having to adjust some things, but basically, when I dry my hair in the morning, it stays dry during the day, which it did NOT do when I lived in Taiwan.)


But I really miss living in Taiwan. I miss my friends, of course. I do NOT miss Clown School. I was lucky enough to go visit them on the 3 days off that foreign staff got for Christmas. I think Taipei might be my favorite city in the world. Unfortunately, the international school situation in Taipei is very small and very competitive, and living in other cities is tough because the pay is a lot lower, so it’s hard to save, which I definitely need to do as I creep out of middle age. (Yes, I’m barely IN middle age, but the years start coming and they don’t stop coming, y’know?)


Well, I hope after my contract is up here, I’ll find a school where I can be for a while. Till then, I’ll make do here. It’s not great, but it’s also not Clown School, so I’ll take it.


Now that I’m over pneumonia, I’m back on my weekend explorations. The weekend before I went to Taiwan, I went to check out Xujiahui Cathedral (right by my LEAST favorite metro station in Shanghai, lol), Longhua Temple and Pagoda, the Wukang Building, Jing’an Temple, and Xintiandi Walking Street (a shopping district that is too fancy for my tastes, but has cool vibes).


I have some plans for this weekend, and then the following weekend, I’m gonna have a little staycation so I can check out the Lantern Festival displays without having to worry about getting a ride back to my district late in the evening. And then I get to go home to see my family!


I hope 2025 treats you all kindly. I hope you have a very calm year.

wrote_and_writ: (Default)
2024-11-23 08:14 pm
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Shanghai Diaries: Pneumonia

I’ve been exhausted by work, and I’ve been annoyed by a lot of things at my new school, things that put a pretty short shelf life on my time there. However, they have been wonderful this week as I’ve been sick with pneumonia. At Clown School, the ring leader harangued one of my coworkers, who got Covid and then pneumonia, to get back to work. Here, I had to do a few things to take the time off (thankfully, the pneumonia is such that I could do a few things, but definitely needed the days off after), and then they took care of covering my classes. One teacher took time to grade some quizzes, which put off my pacing because the kids didn’t get the lesson done I had planned, but to be honest, the assignment was just something to help keep them occupied for 90 minutes, and it was a sweet gesture, so I’ll take it.

The other thing that made me feel better about the whole situation is that my insurance here is really good. I got to go to the fancy hospital that caters to foreigners, got blood work, a chest x-ray and CT scan all done, checked out, diagnosed and prescribed meds in about 2 hours. My deductible is 1000 rmb, which is about $140, which is still a bit to shell out at once, but I could pay it. I didn’t have to worry about spiraling costs. I shouldn’t have to pay anything for my follow-up visits.

Obviously, I’d rather not be ill, because it sucks, but I’m able to handle it much better than I would in the US.
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2024-11-11 06:27 pm
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Life in Shanghai

Oh hello! I finally have a minute to catch my breath, so to speak, so I thought I’d update you all on life in Shanghai.


It’s fine.


I don’t like my new school. The metaphor I’ve come up with is that it’s like wearing the wrong pair of underpants -- be they too small, too tight, too low-cut, too old and stretched out -- whatever it is, they’ll do in a pinch, but they are uncomfortable to be in too long. If you stay in them for way too long (like a too-tight pair), you risk getting an infection. It’s a gross metaphor, but it works. I’ve come from a much worse place to a place that merely (so far) doesn’t fit and isn’t going to fit, no matter how much I change myself or try to make myself smaller to fit. But I can put up with it long enough to finish the contract.


What’s not great: no collaboration, lots of busy work that “looks good for the parents,” terrible classroom management all around, terrible behavior management in general -- the kids run and scream (literally scream) in the halls with no negative consequences. They leave garbage and food in the desks instead of throwing things away. They are openly disrespectful to the foreign staff, outright ignoring us when we speak -- on Sports Day, for example, I was helping with a scooter relay race. It was run by one of the PE teachers, who’s from India, with help from me and a national colleague. They flat out ignored the PE teacher in charge and me, but would listen to the national teacher.


Generally, however, the kids are pretty nice kids. They’re absolutely spoiled, privileged little buggers. Their actions are totally at odds with the Socialist Values (which are posted in every classroom). It’ll be interesting to see how these kids grow up and make their mark on China. And the hypocrisy between the image of China and the ideal Chinese citizens projected hard by the government is not as jarring as I thought it would be, especially as I’ve watched the majority of citizens in my own country elect that human cancer president. It is a little hard to watch speeches about role models that praise Mao, but there were also speeches praising Elon Musk, which I’ve seen in every school I’ve ever taught in. You are not immune to propaganda, etc.


But my students are, as individuals, quite sweet. I enjoy working with them.


I’ve never been so busy at a job and so bored at the same time. I feel like I’m constantly grading things. A part of this is due to having more students than I’ve had in a while. I have a roster closer to the size I’d have had in the US. That definitely takes getting used to. But a good deal of what I’m actually marking is garbage busy work. Weekly vocab quizzes that the students have no time to actually properly learn. Pedagogy that has been proven ineffective for decades is the norm here. And this is not really the fault of the national curriculum. For that particular bug, we turn to the British side of things!


Our dear British leaders are adamant that we do the kill-and-drill style of vocab practice. Well, I suppose we could try something else, but our pacing chart is packed so tight that I’d have to jettison lessons on the novel that we’re doing. I’m also expected to teach grammar in there, but there’s no grammar curriculum, so it’s just “figure it out!”


When I was interviewed for this job, one thing I made abundantly clear is that I wanted a place where I could do true collaboration with colleagues, particularly cross-curricular but I’d also love to work with my other grade-level teachers. The problems, however, are that we are strictly scheduled with regards to content that I couldn’t collaborate with other content areas, even if I wanted to. And the other lessons are taught in Chinese. And those subjects are on as fixed a track as we are. As for collaborating with my grade-level peers, the classes are streamed by ability, so I can’t do something with my 7th graders (who are top level) that my coworker, who has students with lower English skills, can also do with his. In addition, I share each group of kids with a national teacher, and when I tried to set up something with them, I was called into the principal’s office and told in no uncertain terms that I was to think of them as a totally different subject. There would be no collaboration. Except that we share a stupidly complex gradebook made in fucking excel spreadsheets because why not! It’s not like it’s 2024 and there are programs that will take care of all this. No, we have to share a spreadsheet, agree on the “social” grades (participates in class, turns in work on time) for each kid, even if they behave in totally different ways between the teachers (see the above paragraphs about how national teachers are treated versus international teachers). And then we have to HAND COPY the data into the one data management system we have, which DOES have a gradebook function that we are not allowed to use. All of this leaves me exhausted without feeling like I’ve done any real teaching.


And the British attitudes. Now, I know and love many British people, but there is a particular type of British expat (especially one who vehemently calls themselves expats rather than migrants or immigrants) who comes to East Asia to work. They marry local gals, make little effort to integrate, and are the most patriarchal bastards you’ve ever met. Alas, I work with some. The younger ones even have a veneer of liberalism to them, but it’s a pretty thin veneer. And I know Americans abroad are just as likely to be dicks, but I know how to work with them. I know how to fight them without too much stress. But the attitude of appearance over substance is a killer for someone like me, for whom teaching is a valued profession, one that I take very seriously. I’m not willing to just show up, read from a script, collect my pay, and go home.


Working in a bilingual school is also a lot lonelier than I anticipated. I’m an introvert, but I still want to be able to talk to my coworkers. And while technically all the national staff are bilingual, milage varies on that. And no shade to them. This is their home and their language. DuoLingo and Rocket Language aren’t speedy teachers. It’s still lonely. And because we’re all run off our feet with busy work, making friends with international teachers in other grades is really tough. I’ve managed to make friends with that Indian PE teacher and one of the kindergarten teachers. I’ve also been adopted by the South African contingent (one of whom is my department coworker) and made part of their bi-weekly dinner groupchat, which is awesome. But one thing I’m hearing is that no one is happy here.


Some teachers are interviewing for other schools right now. Others are planning to leave mid-contract. Because I came from a much worse situation before, I am fairly confident I can stick it out for two years. Plus, my finances took a MAJOR hit this year, and I can’t afford to walk away with nothing again. I can’t even go home because both my brothers are in much worse shape than I am, and there isn’t really space for me right now. They’d make space for me if I had to leave, but if I don’t have to go, I’m going to try not to go and make things more stressful for family (and myself).


But there have been some positives!


I LOVE Shanghai’s fall weather. We’ve had a good mix of cooler temps and sunshine. Two weekends back, I finally made it to the Shanghai Film Park, and I stood on the very spot where Shen Wei and Zhao Yunlan “met” for the first time, on the campus of Dragon City University. Be still my fangirl heart! Downtown Shanghai (Huangpu District and its direct neighbors, basically) is fascinating. It is, unfortunately, an hour from my home by metro (and anywhere from 45 minutes to two hours depending on traffic by car), so it’s not like I can pop down for dinner after work, but I have been trying to take myself on little adventures on the weekends. The Former French Concession and International Districts (now parts of Huangpu and Xuhui Districts) have a lot of old Art Deco architecture and interesting shops and cafes. They’re great places to walk around. The Bund is wild and super touristy but still has some cool things to see. There are some great museums around. And I can’t emphasize enough how much I love having proper fall weather again.


I’m not thrilled about the Chinese school calendar, which means no Christmas break, although the international staff kindly get December 25-27 off, while the rest of the school has a Chinese Culture Week. While I would love to take part in that, I’m going to Taipei to visit my friends.


So that’s where I’m at for now. I’m going to try and save up money for the next 2-4 years (possibly aiming for Guangdong Province after this, although it would be back to yucky hot and humid weather). I definitely will be at a regular international school. No more bilingual schools, and no more British schools. By then, I hope to have enough experience to get into a good school in Taipei. I really miss Taipei. I don’t have nostalgia-tinted views about my last school, but I really, really liked Taipei. I would love to live there, even inspite of the climate.


So we’ll see what happens.

wrote_and_writ: (Default)
2024-10-28 05:53 pm
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Shanghai Diaries: Ahhhhhhhh!

That “Ahhhhhh” has to do with the general busy-ness of life these days, not Shanghai itself. I’ve never been so tired and yet so bored in a job in my life. I come home brain dead and wrung out, but I feel like I’m not doing good teaching at all. A lot of it has to do with the huge increase in grading I’ve had to do. I sort of expected it because I have about 3 times the students I’ve had recently. But also the kind of work we do is just busy work. So much kill-and-drill vocab! I had to photocopy something called a “long read” — a short story or article I get to choose — each week, and the kids Do Not Read It. Well, probably 80% of them don’t read it. They just go for the vocab list, look up definitions, even if they aren’t the right word, and scribble down something. They don’t learn the definitions. They hardly even memorize things to pass the quiz. And there’s NO consequence for failure. There’s no grades aside from completed/collected. There’s no incentive to pass. I spend so much fucking time on these.


Then, we’re spending four months on a novel, which is WAY too slow. It doesn’t allow for the kids to practice and apply skills across multiple texts.


The school is VERY hung up on appearances. I have done NO collaboration, but I’ve done plenty of commiseration with colleagues.


Now, this place is still a hundred times better than Clown School, but that also makes its deficiencies stand out all the more starkly. It’s quite lonely being in a bilingual school. My international ELA department colleagues are super nice. I’m enjoying them. The national staff (outside of the ELA department) ignores us. The national staff in the ELA department is pretty clique-y as well. And I get why. We don’t really speak Chinese, and while they speak English, they’re not in an English-speaking country.


All this is to say I definitely will not be staying beyond my contract, but I feel like I can finish my contract.


I really like Shanghai. I love cool autumn weather. I love the cultural opportunities. I’m planning to go to the Shanghai Film Park (finally!) this weekend if it doesn’t rain too much.


But I definitely want to get back into a straight-up international school next. Wish me luck.


PS My family is still falling apart and chaotic and my uncle had a stroke this week (minor, but still), so I’m really happy to be Not There, and I feel guilty as fuck about that. So that’s something. 😅

wrote_and_writ: (Default)
2024-09-17 09:02 am
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Typhoon Bebinca

So, it turns out that that little ol’ typhoon that barreled through yesterday was the strongest typhoon to hit Shanghai in like 75 years! My laundry room/balcony flooded because the seals on the windows are hot garbage. At first I tried to mop it all up with all my linens. Then I realized there’s a drain in the floor for the washer, so I moved the linens and the water flowed mostly into the drain and stopped pooling. Now the floor is dry, and I just have to figure out how to get water out of the inside tracks where the two sets of windows rest. I think I’ll just have to stuff towels in them to sop up the water.

I was going to go exploring today, but I think that given the potential damage downtown and given the nice little boost in humidity due to all the water, I think I’ll just stay home for the morning, get some lesson plans done, and maybe go out later tonight to buy some more towels.

All in all, I’m certainly grateful to have gotten through this little adventure, but please, whoever in the universe is listening, I could really do with a little less adventure!
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2024-09-16 09:03 am
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你好!

I was going to make a proper post, but things have been so busy! I’ve also had trouble getting a VPN to work at home, and I’m not doing personal stuff at work. We have today (Monday) and Tuesday off for the Mid Autumn Festival, but a typhoon is ruining my plans to go poke around downtown. It’s very annoying, which I am grateful for, don’t get me wrong —FB tells me that six years ago I was experiencing my first typhoon, Super Typhoon Mangkhut, and this is not as strong. Anyway, I’m going to knit and try not to watch too many videos about the election.
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2024-08-16 09:25 pm
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China Diary #1: Making Connections

Well hello. I have been in China for two weeks now, and things are settling down. Ish. It's fine. It's moving along. I want to Be Settled, but I also know that it will take time, and I'm grumpy about it. However, I finally got a mattress pad, so I'm hoping a solidly good night of sleep in my new apartment will help.

I joined a social group chat, and I have (tentatively, in my head) agreed to a meet up with the new cohort. However, they are planning dinner at a buffet, and I don't like buffets. Even before COVID, buffets made me anxious, and buffets in China are extra stressful, in my experience. Just lots more people and different social norms. So I think I'm going to skip the buffet. Thankfully I have an IKEA delivery I can use as an excuse. But I'll meet up for a few drinks after.

I did go on a little adventure with one new coworker yesterday. We went to get soup dumplings, aka xiaolongbao. Richard has been to Shanghai before, and I was happy to let him take the lead. He wanted to go to a Michelin-starred place, but first we went to a little restaurant that he remembered from his college days. We had xiaolongbao filled with yellow crab, which is apparently a Shanghai speciality. I didn't love them, which I assured Richard was fine. I'm happy to try new things. I really only won't eat spicy food and a few exotic meats (and probably insects, that's not come up yet). I don't seek new foods out myself. I'm a homebody with a love of routine and a basic palate. But if I have the chance to go out with someone and try new things, I'm happy to do it. The crab dumplings were fine! I wouldn't get them again for myself. But I enjoyed the experience, and I'm happy that Richard was happy to have them again. Then we tried the starred dumplings -- pork with mushrooms. I can't say that I could tell the difference in quality, but again, I enjoyed the experience. I don't think I like xiaolongbao over other types of dumplings. I'm not dextrous enough with chopsticks, so I tend to burn myself. Which, as I think about it now, is probably why my tongue feels weird. I thought I was just dehydrated (and I probably am, a bit, I've been sweating SO MUCH), but I think I also burned my tongue a bit.

We walked around the Nanjing Pedestrian Street to the Bund and snapped a few pics of the Shanghai skyline. Overall, I had a great time.

And... one of the things that filled my heart (and also made me a little sad) is that I'm pretty sure Richard is queer. If you're queer, you'll know what I mean, even though I don't have quite the words to express what I mean. We didn't talk about ourselves so overtly. We're still strangers to each other, and we're in a place where being openly queer (in a Western sense -- we're both Americans) isn't really safe. But when two queer people meet and haven't openly established that connection, your conversation still has all these markers, you know? Where you're carefully sussing the other person out. It fills my heart because yay! Someone I share a connection with! But also it makes me sad that we're doing that careful conversational dance. Anyway.

Today I had to go back into town (Songjiang is like 11 km from the center of Shanghai) for a visa appointment. It takes 1.5 hours on the metro, so I figured I'd make it worth the trip. The appointment took all of two minutes. The worker looked at me, looked at my passport, made me sign something, and sent me on my way. Awesome. (I mean, I'm glad there were no obvious issues.) After the appointment, I went to the Foreign Language Bookstore. It's nice! I only gave myself 30 minutes because I wanted to get the metro before rush hour, so I did a quick turn around the ground floor. There were shelves upon shelves of various editions of classic lit. So much Shakespeare! Shelves of Christie, Tolkien. Game of Thrones books and merch. A huge display of Harry Potter books and stuff (🤢🤮). One thing that always drives me crazy about English sections in non-English bookstores is that they are never really organized. They aren't in alphabetical order. Even if the clerks don't read English, surely they can match the letters? However, I read about how some Chinese authors' names were fucked up at the recent Worldcon, so instead, I'll just be grateful that there are even books available that I can just walk into the store and buy because white people are NOT making the same "basic" efforts for non-English authors. I have no room to complain when things aren't to my liking. I bought a copy of Brave New World by Aldous Huxley and The Book of Delights by Ross Gay (I'm not familiar with his work at all, but it looks like the sort of book I need in my life).

I'm looking forward to more explorations.
wrote_and_writ: (Default)
2024-08-06 07:13 pm

Hello!

I'm in Shanghai! I'll try to post properly once things get settled. I've put a deposit down on an apartment and will sign the lease Monday (due to banking shenanigans and then the landlord having a thing), which is good because I'm checking out of my hotel on Monday. I'm in a weird limbo of stressed and not stressed because there are some things I have to do that I can't yet, things I want to do but can't (because money mostly), and it's also HOT as Fuck right now. Like highs of 100+/feels like 120 with humidity. I've mostly been taking little jaunts to Starbucks and then watching the Olympics in my air-conditioned hotel room.

I did finish two books. Mom and I listed to The Body in the Library by Agatha Christie on the drive to the airport (she listened to the rest of it, then I finished it after she returned it to Libby). I had seen a TV adaptation of it but didn't remember the twist. The murder is actually quite a downer. I mean, murder SHOULD be a downer, but this one was just sad, and contrasted with one of the character's determination to "enjoy" the murder/excitement, I am sure that's kind of the point. Murder isn't exciting. People have died, someone has killed them, it's extremely a bummer!

I also finished volume 3 of Sha Po Lang/Stars of Chaos, and I am LIVING for it. I mentioned on bsky that I liked the world building, and I do, but I think what I like more is the intricacy of the political intrigue. I couldn't keep that sort of thing straight in my head as a write, so I admire Priest's skill. I also get kind of a kick out of Gu Yun and his reaction to Chang Geng's affections and advances. Chang Geng is a kinky little shit, and Gu Yun does not get it, but he's discovered he loves Chang Geng back, so he kind of goes with it. I'm with Gu Yun on this. I was thrilled that they finally hooked up, but truly, I am more interested in seeing how the Empire fares (and how CG/GY and their friends get through it all. I've got about a month til volume 4 comes out, and only a week or so til Guardian vol 3 wraps up. Plus a million other things to read.

Anyway, I just wanted to say hi. I hope you are all doing well.